| This is a how-to for polishing; in this write up we'll | | | | Now it's time for wet sanding. I like to mix water and |
| polish an Eaton m112 supercharger | | | | dawn soap into a spray bottle and use that as the |
| First off you need to remove then disassemble the | | | | liquid, not only does it keep the sand paper free of |
| supercharger, remove the pulley while it's still on the | | | | debris, it cleans the metal as you're polishing. You can |
| car. Once it's off the car remove the bypass valve, | | | | continue to use the palm sander but the dremel is |
| sensors and anything else bolted on, intercooler | | | | worthless for now. Wet sand 400, 600, 800... |
| included. At this point you can strip the paint, or do it | | | | You're probably tired by now, you can stop wet |
| later, notes below on this step. | | | | sanding at 800 if you'd like, but for that little extra |
| Next you'll need to disassemble the blower; it's as | | | | bling in the finish continue up to 1500 then even 2000 |
| easy as unbolting the snout and pulling it off. Once | | | | if you'd like. |
| you get the snout off you'll need to pull the middle | | | | Now that you're done sanding it's time to clean the |
| section out, the rotors will come with this section. | | | | blower, make sure nothing is on it, use acetone to |
| Now that you have the blower in 3 pieces you can | | | | clean the whole thing, you should be left with a |
| either go all out and break each piece down EG | | | | smooth looking dull surface. |
| removing the gears, shaft, etc, or just tape off | | | | Ok here is what you'll need for polishing, I highly |
| areas. | | | | suggest a bench grinder, the more amps the better. |
| It's far simpler to tape off areas, so once you've | | | | The key to polishing is being able to force the part |
| removed the gasket maker on the edges of the | | | | onto the polishing wheel while keeping wheel speed |
| snout, middles section and case; you can seal those | | | | constant creating heat and slowly moving over the |
| off with duct-tape. Tape the back of the snout, the | | | | part, you can most defiantly use a hand drill too. |
| gear side of the middle section, then on the rotor | | | | If you're using a 1/3rd hp bench grinder 5" wheels are |
| section you can wrap the rotors in bubble wrap, then | | | | good, a drill use 3" wheels, on my 2hp polishing |
| tape them up completely, you want to seal all internal | | | | machine I use 8"-10" wheels. The wheels you'll need |
| areas with tape. Clean the interior of the case out | | | | are spiral sewn cotton wheels, look them up on |
| with acetone on a rag, and carefully clean the area | | | | yahoo, you'll want atleast 3 since you can't mix |
| around the rear bearings, tape those off now, you | | | | compounds over different wheels, 6 would be better |
| can't let anything get into those bearings. | | | | just incase you ruin one. You'll also want several |
| Now that all the internal parts of the blower are | | | | dremel polishing wheels, these ware out fast so get |
| sealed you can strip the paint off, just brush air craft | | | | them in sets of 3. |
| finishing remover, and let it sit for 10 minutes, then | | | | You'll need 3 polishing compounds, these look like |
| wire brush the paint off. You can also do this while | | | | crayons, Emory, Tripoli, and White rouge. |
| the blower is still assembled. | | | | If you decided to use a hand drill sears sells a |
| Now that the paint is removed it's time to start | | | | polishing kit in their dremel section, it comes with 3 |
| sanding. I use a 2hp polishing machine with specific | | | | wheels, and 4 compounds, this will also work. |
| sanding grit wheels, this is not practical for the | | | | Start polishing, put a wheel on your buffer, bench |
| weekend warrior, so I'll explain the sanding process | | | | grinder, or drill, get it spinning and press the Emory |
| using simple tools, if you're curious about my | | | | compound to the wheel. What happens is the friction |
| specialized polishing machine feel free to PM me, it's | | | | of the wheel melts the compound down and it sticks |
| about a $800 investment and will cut a 20 hour | | | | to the wheel. Slow even movements are essential, |
| polishing job down to 2 hours. | | | | building heat is ideal. Do as much of the blower as |
| First step in sanding is to select your sand paper, | | | | you can, for the small hard to reach areas use the |
| home depot sells 20 sheet packages, and you'll want | | | | dremel with a polishing wheel on it, same process. |
| a lot of paper, buy 80, 120, 200, 300, and 400. You | | | | Wipe all the polished surfaces with acetone, now |
| might need to visit an automotive store for the finer | | | | using a new wheel repeat the whole process using |
| grits; you'll need 600, 800, 1000, and 1500. | | | | the Tripoli compound. |
| You'll need a sanding block, a vibrating palm sander, | | | | Again wipe the blower down with acetone and |
| (not an orbital sander) and some small prices of | | | | repeat the process once again using the final |
| wood you can wrap in sand paper. A dremel with | | | | compound, white rouge. |
| some pointed cone sanding bits and some drum | | | | Clean the blower out like mad, you can't leave any |
| sander bits will save you a lot of time, nothing over | | | | shavings or compound on the blower, wipe it with |
| 150 grit for this though. Also you'll want some dremel | | | | acetone, use an air compressor to blow anything out |
| bit buffing wheels. | | | | of it. |
| Start sanding, the flat areas of the blower are easy | | | | Remove all the taped off areas, clean the edges to |
| to hit with a palm sander, start with 80 grit and do | | | | prep them for new gasket maker, I also picked up a |
| as much as you can, getting the hard to reach places | | | | can of high temperature bearing grease and added a |
| are tough, you can wrap sand paper around small | | | | little more to the rear bearings. |
| pieces of wood to get into those areas, or you can | | | | You're ready to reassemble the blower, line a bead |
| try the dremel. For this project a dremel is a skill tool, | | | | of copper gasket maker on the front of the case, |
| too high an rpm in one spot one second too long will | | | | slide the rotor section of the blower into the case, |
| cause a low spot, you don't want this, so be very | | | | do it slowly and carefully, don't force it, push it until |
| careful sanding with this tool. | | | | it's flush up against the case. |
| Take your time sanding, once you've sanded the | | | | Next the front of the section you just pressed in |
| whole blower to 80 grit you need to continue to 400 | | | | with gasket maker and press that in, make sure you |
| grit, it's going to take a long time, but the finish | | | | line the snout coupler up with the gear, press it all |
| product is only as good as this preparation. | | | | together. |
| So now you're finished sanding up to 400 grit; by | | | | Now 18tq each bolt back into the snout, do a zigzag |
| now you've probably figured out how to get into the | | | | pattern to lock it down evenly. |
| small areas of the blower, if not get creative, worse | | | | Once it's back together let the gasket maker cure |
| case is you're just balling up sand paper on the end | | | | for a while. Now add some oil, you can just 5w-30, |
| of your finger, sometimes you have to get that | | | | that's what I used. Put it all back together and put it |
| crude for the sake of the finished product. | | | | on the car and you are done! |