| It's now common knowledge that Wrangler owners | | | | in the confined area you'll be working in. When using a |
| like to have fun and what's more fun than a bigger | | | | grinder, make sure you cut slowly and no more than |
| Jeep? Not much! | | | | 30-60 seconds at a time. This will prevent the shaft |
| The problem Wrangler owners face when lifting their | | | | from getting overheated and warping. After you've |
| Jeep is that short rear driveline. Any type of | | | | cut through the shaft, if it isn't square at the end, |
| suspension lift that exceeds 3.5" is likely to cause | | | | grind it down to make it square. |
| driveline vibrations. Aside from lowering the transfer | | | | 5. Center punch the end of the shaft. This will ensure |
| case (which also lowers ground clearance), the | | | | the drill bit starts in the center of the shaft when |
| easiest way to eliminate driveline vibrations is to get | | | | drilling the pilot hole. To make finding the center of |
| rid of the short, slip-yoke type driveline and replace it | | | | the shaft easier, place the CV Output Flange over |
| with a longer, CV type. The only way to do that is | | | | the cut-off shaft. This reduces the visible surface |
| to replace or modify your existing transfer case. | | | | area from about 1.25" diameter to 0.5" diameter |
| Replacing the transfer case can cost upwards of a | | | | allowing you to find the center of the shaft easier. |
| couple thousand dollars. Unfortunately, most of you | | | | Be sure to hit the centerpunch hard enough to put a |
| (like me) probably don't have that kind of money | | | | dent in the end of the shaft deep enough for a 1/8" |
| available to spend on a transfer case swap. That | | | | drill bit to sit in. |
| leaves us the option of modifying the existing | | | | 6. Drill the pilot hole in the end of the shaft. This is |
| transfer case by removing the tailcone output | | | | done with a 1/8" drill bit. This step is easiest done |
| section and shortening it by about 3". Doing this will | | | | with the vehicle raised 6" on jack stands and the |
| allow you to install a driveshaft that is about 3" longer | | | | transfer case lowered 2". With the vehicle being as |
| which, in itself, will alleviate driveline angles, but better | | | | high as possible, you'll be able to sit under it and |
| yet, it will allow you to switch to a CV type | | | | gauge the direction of the drill. The pilot hole needs |
| drivehsaft which better at handling sharp angles than | | | | to be drilled into the shaft as straight as possible so |
| its slip-yoke counterpart. | | | | take your time. The pilot hole needs to be 1"-1.25" |
| Installing a Rubicon Express slip yoke eliminator takes | | | | deep. After that is done, you need to bore out the 1 |
| about two hours and requires the following tools. | | | | 8" pilot hole with a 5/16" drill bit. To be on the safe |
| - Basic mechanics wrenches/sockets | | | | side, you may want to use a 3/16" bit before going |
| - Circular saw/grinder with a metal cutting blade (a | | | | to the 5/16" bit. This makes it a little easier to drill a |
| Sawzall will not work) | | | | straight hole. Make sure the final depth of the pilot |
| - Center punch | | | | hole is 1.25". |
| - Hammer | | | | 7. Use a 3/8" -24 tap to cut threads into the 5/16" |
| - Electric drill | | | | pilot hole. Use cutting oil (or WD40) and keep the tap |
| - Tap handle - for the 3/8" tap. | | | | threads clean. CAUTION: If you have never used a |
| Do not use a wrench to turn the tap. | | | | tap before, then tapping the pilot hole is not the time |
| A wrench does not allow you to put equal force on | | | | to learn! For best results you should read up on how |
| both sides of the tap like a handle does and | | | | to correctly do this and then practice on another |
| therefore you can easily break it off inside the shaft. | | | | piece of steel. The proper way to tap a hole is one |
| - 1/8" and 5/16" drill bit | | | | full turn forward (clockwise) and one-half turn back |
| - 3/8" and 5/16" Allen wrenches | | | | (counter-clockwise), but since the shaft is made of |
| - Cutting oil | | | | hardened steel, tap it in one-half turn forward |
| - RTV silicone sealer | | | | increments. Better safe than sorry at this point. |
| - Loctite | | | | 8. Install the Oil seal in the Bearing/Seal Flange. You |
| The advantages of using this particular kit are simple: | | | | will need a press, vice, or similar tool to do this. The |
| it's cheap ($199 USD), easy to install (done while the | | | | oil seal needs to be pressed straight in or damage will |
| transfer case is in the vehicle), improves your lifted | | | | occur. Afters the Oil Seal is pressed into the Bearing |
| vehicle's rear driveline angle, and allows a lowered | | | | Seal Flange, turn it over and run a bead of RTV |
| transfer case to be put back into its stock location. | | | | Silicone along a circumference just inside the three |
| | | | bolt holes. The bead should be about 3/16". Allow |
| 1. Remove the rear driveshaft from the vehicle. On | | | | about 10-20 minutes for the silicone to "skin" over |
| the rear axle, this is done by removing four 1/4" bolts | | | | before installing it. Take this time to lube up the |
| and two steel retaining straps from the differential | | | | rubber part of the seal where it will make contact |
| output yoke. At the transfer case, simply pull the | | | | with the CV Output Flange. Wiping transfer case oil |
| driveshaft out of the slip yoke. Some oil may spill | | | | on it with your finger will be adequate. Make sure to |
| from the transfer case when the shaft is removed | | | | put oil all around the black rubber part of the seal. |
| but not a lot. | | | | This is to reduce friction otherwise the seal will melt |
| 2. Remove the tailcone section from the transfer | | | | and tear within the first mile of driving. |
| case. The tailcone is held to the transfer case by | | | | 9. Install the Bearing/Seal Flange. Remove the duct |
| three bolts. Remove them and tailcone should pop | | | | tape, saran wrap, or whatever you used to protect |
| slide off the case/shaft. If not, lightly tap it on the | | | | the transfer case output bearing (in step 3) from the |
| sides with a hammer to nudge it free from the case. | | | | transfer case output shaft. Clean the surface near |
| The only thing holding it in place at this time is silicone | | | | the bearing making sure there is no leftover residue |
| sealant. | | | | from when the tailcone was removed. Use three |
| 3. Seal the output shaft bearing surface to avoid | | | | grade 8 M10 x 25mm bolts to install the Bearing/Seal |
| contact with debris. Rubicon Express suggested the | | | | Flange onto the transfer case. Apply Loctite to the |
| use of duct tape, however other items such as | | | | bolts before inserting them. Now would be a good |
| Reynold's saran wrap will work. Be sure to use a | | | | time to apply RTV silicone to the remaining splines of |
| liberal amount so no debris can get into the output | | | | the output shaft. This is to prevent oil from leaking |
| bearing when you cut the shaft off. | | | | through the CV Output Flange once it's installed. |
| 4. Measure and mark the shaft so that 1" of splined | | | | 10. Install the CV Output Flange. Slide the CV Output |
| shaft will remain. Remember the rule, "Measure twice. | | | | Flange over the output shaft splines and through the |
| Cut once." It may be wise to mark a little more than | | | | oil seal. Take care not to damage the seal. You may |
| 1" of shaft because too long is better than too short. | | | | need to use a hammer to lightly tap the CV Output |
| If you cut the shaft too long, it can be shortened. If | | | | Flange down the shaft. Use a 3/8" bolt and washer |
| you cut the shaft too short, you'll need a new one. | | | | to bolt the CV Output Flange to the output shaft. |
| You will need a circular saw with a metal cutting | | | | Use loctite to hold the bolt in place. |
| carbide blade. A sawzall will NOT work. A 4.5" hand | | | | Congratulations! You no longer need to worry about |
| grinder is ideal for this because it's small enough to fit | | | | your Jeep vibrating due to your 3"+ suspension lift. |